I went to L’Écume St. Honoré for a half dozen spéciales, but it’s a single scallop that I keep thinking about.
Just off of rue Saint-Honoré, this poissonnerie does double duty as a restaurant. There’s a dining room in the back, and a few seats at high tables in front, next to the vibrant display of fish and shellfish. A soundtrack of seaside noises is piped through the speakers.
I finished my oysters, and the man doing the shucking asked me if I wanted dessert, smiling as he pointed to a little board advertising the Saint Jacques special. I couldn’t resist.
I’ve eaten raw scallops before, in sushi restaurants and in crudo-crazed New York. But I’ve never tasted anything quite like this St. Jacques, opened in front of me and sliced thinly, the meat laid out in the shell with the roe still attached.
It was so sweet, it really needed no embellishment. A tiny dab of soy sauce was perfect, but I didn’t dare ruin this with wasabi.
Was it “dessert”? Not exactly, but a delicious ending to the first act of what turned out to be a very long evening.
And the oysters weren’t bad, either.
L’Ecume St.-Honoré 6 Rue du Marché St.-Honoré, Paris 75001, +33 (0)1 42 61 93 87