My mother had remarkable restraint when it came to sweets. The woman could eat two tablespoons of ice cream and claim to be satisfied. I say “restraint” but I think she actually didn’t really like anything too rich. Or at least she pretended not to.
This cake was one of her favorite treats.
With no eggs and only a little bit of milk and oil, it’s (sort of) on the lean side as far as cakes go. Not that this is something I find inherently good: I do not share my mother’s a-few-tiny-bites-is-good-enough-for-me attitude, and the amount of ice cream I ate today would have lasted weeks in her freezer. It’s just surprising that this moist, flavorful cake is not packed full of rich ingredients.
The original recipe, the cake I remember being unable to stop eating whenever it was sitting on my mother’s kitchen counter, was made with orange juice and orange zest, not raspberries. I was about to make that original recipe until I realized that the friend I would be sharing it with has a strong dislike of all citrus fruits. I have convinced this young woman to try oysters, but she cannot even look at lemons or oranges without making a sour face. When I remembered this fact, I made a sour face myself.
So. Instead of using orange juice, I macerated raspberries in some of the sugar called for in the recipe until they became good and juicy, lightly smashed them and stirred them into the batter with the other wet ingredients. I then congratulated myself for having this idea, no small feat considering that my brain was mush today after too much wine last night with Meg, Sharon, and Wendy.
There are two other differences between this cake and the one my mother used to make. First, her recipe calls for skim milk. I know what you’re thinking. You’re thinking, “Oh jeez, Barbra put crème fraîche in yet another recipe.” Well you’re wrong, smartypants. I used buttermilk (actually its French cousin, lait ribot), which has a tenderizing effect on cakes. Second, I used Valrhona cocoa powder, something I’m quite sure my mother never had in her cupboard.
I hate to say it (okay, not really) but I think I like my way better.
Chocolate-Raspberry Cake
1 c fresh raspberries
2/3 c sugar, divided
1 c all-purpose flour
1/4 c cocoa powder (I use Valrhona)
3/4 t baking soda
1/4 t salt
1/2 c buttermilk
2 T vegetable oil
1. Preheat the oven to 350°. Lightly oil an 8″ or 9″ round cake pan, or 8″ square pan.
2. Toss the raspberries with about 1/3 of the sugar and set aside for about 20 minutes, until the raspberries are very juicy. Gently crush some of the berries with a spoon, then stir in the buttermilk and oil until well combined.
3. In a medium bowl, sift together the remaining sugar, flour, cocoa, baking soda, and salt.
4. Gently stir the wet ingredients into the dry, just until thoroughly combined. Pour the batter into the prepared pan and bake for 25-30 minutes, until a toothpick or knife tip inserted into the center comes out clean. Cool the cake in the pan.
Serves 8-10
This cake is a fine snack with coffee or tea but makes a good simple dessert with a little whipped cream and fresh berries. Leftovers can be kept, well-wrapped at room temperature, for up to two days.