On the zinc bar, there were artichokes, bread, and an overfilled crock of Bordier butter. In our glasses, a juicy Morgon from Lapierre. In our mouths, piping hot, creamy ham croquettes. In the corner was a candy apple red, hand-cranked slicer, and above that, all manner of cured pork waiting for a turn on that shiny machine. From a stranger, a ruffle of ham. Along the wall, a list of names, a Pantheon of food artisans.
Coming and going was chef and owner Yves Camdeborde. Next door, an eternally elusive dinner reservation at his restaurant. Where we stood, more than ample consolation.
L’Avant Comptoir, 9 Carrefour de l’Odeon, 75006 Paris, +33 (0)8 26 10 10 87