On the zinc bar, artichokes, bread, and an overfilled crock of Bordier butter. In our glasses, a juicy Morgon from Lapierre. In our mouths, piping hot, creamy ham croquettes. In the corner, a candy apple red, hand-cranked slicer. Above that, all manner of cured pork waiting for a turn on that shiny machine. From a stranger, a ruffle of jambon. Along the wall, a list of names, a Pantheon of food sources. Over our heads, the prettiest taxidermy pig I’ve ever seen. At the window, a teenager getting a crêpe for the road.
Coming and going, chef and owner Yves Camdeborde. Next door, an eternally elusive dinner reservation at his restaurant. Where we stood, more than ample consolation.
L’Avant Comptoir, 9 Carrefour de l’Odeon, 75006 Paris, +33 (0)8 26 10 10 87