Today I took the number 39 bus to India.
It was the first time I had ever explored the streets behind the Gare du Nord, and certainly the first time I have consumed anything from a bendy straw in Paris. It was a mango lassi at Krishna Bhavan, a vegetarian restaurant on rue Cail.
“Eat,” the cup commanded me, and I did: Fried eggplant, followed by the Chapati Spéciale, two pieces of whole wheat flatbread to scoop up a (barely) spicy eggplant and a mild vegetable curry. With the lassi it came to €13.80. “It used to be cheaper,” said the woman next to me, who had just come from yoga class.
This is clearly the neighborhood to come to if you are searching for rice, alliums, and idols in bulk:
I loved these knots of dough, visibly rising as they waited to be rolled out, stuffed, and griddled:
I’ve never had a hot meal in Paris. Spicy hot, that is. I’d like to go to dinner at the home of whoever is buying these peppers:
Attack of the giant squashes! (The garlic is pretty big, too.)
Later I found something to consider if I tire of wine (though the last time I drank litchi flavored cocktails I ended up in a four year relationship).
This butcher was doing brisk business:
It has to be one of the few places in Paris where, if someone says “chèvre,” he’s not talking about cheese.
To get to this neighborhood, take a bus or Metro to Gare du Nord and walk north on rue du Faubourg St. Denis. Rue Cail has a row of restaurants.
Krishna Bhavan 24 rue Cail, 75010 Paris, +33 (0)1 42 05 78 43
“Petit Jafna” as many know the neighbourhood, is predominantly Sri Lankan rather than Indian… it has long been the most visible part of Paris’ large Tamoul community.
I love that area! I try to go for a meal every time I am in Paris.