I love a restaurant that recognizes its limitations.
Actually, to even say that Le Verre Volé is a “restaurant” with a “kitchen” is pushing it. Really, it’s a no-frills wine shop with a glorified toaster oven.
Very little of the food served at Le Verre Volé is made on the premises. No, these guys are smart. The pâtés, terrines, saucisses and caillettes are outsourced, brought in, dressed up minimally and served simply and inexpensively. All of the main courses come with the same (very tasty) potato purée and green salad flecked with grains of whole grain mustard. This is not a complaint.
Bulots with aioli, brandade, marinated or smoked fish, charcuterie and cheese: This menu is designed with drinking in mind. That’s because this really is a wine shop. Variety at Le Verre Volé lives on the shelves, which are lined with vins naturals. These are untreated, unfiltered, unmanipulated wines from small producers committed to letting the grapes speak for themselves.
“Organic” doesn’t cover it here: These wines are literally alive and, very often, kicking. We had a blanc de blancs from Vouette et Sorbée called Cuvée d’Argile, a lovely reminder that Champagne is in fact wine, followed by a Crozes-Hermitage 2006 from Dard Ribo. (Both were magnums. There were ten of us. What can I say?)
No write-up of Le Verre Volé would be complete without mention of the boudin noir. It’s not much to look at, I know. But I can’t bring myself to care, because what emerges from the broiler, that fantastic crust covering a serious mass of blood sausage, is so eyes-roll-to-the-back-of-your-head delicious that I can no longer order anything else. A friend told me he’d been there recently. “The boudin noir…” he said, voice trailing off, unable to come up with the words. We just shook our heads and sighed.
Honestly, my only gripe about the double V is that on days when I think to myself, “I’d really like to go to Le Verre Volé tonight,” it’s too late. They are fully booked.
But this isn’t Le Verre Volé’s problem. It’s mine.
Le Verre Volé 67 rue de Lancry, 75010 Paris, +33 (0)1 48 03 17 34 website
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