Full disclosure: I know these guys. I have been on the receiving end of the generosity of Drew Harré and Juan Sanchez many, many times. I’ve never written about Fish because it’s too close, in a sense, and since my first visit three years ago has really ceased to be a restaurant in my mind. Whether I have dinner there or just drinks (the wines are fantastic), I’m really there to see friends.
But yesterday I went specifically to eat.
“I’ve come for the burger,” I announced when I walked in.
Paul the barman, a young man of whom I am very fond (are you reading this, Paul?) set me up and soon after I was presented with a board laid with a patty of hand-cut beef on an English muffin (from that stand at the Raspail market, FYI) with red onion, lettuce, tangy guacamole spicy mayo and ketchup. A seriously zippy slaw (the way I like it) and a skewer of crisp skinned potatoes play back up. It’s on the austere side, as burgers go, with no cheese, no bacon, and a lean cut of meat. Could this burger benefit from a little more thickness and a bit more fat in the mix? Perhaps, though it was it was still very juicy, and the flavor of the beef was fantastic.
The burger, offered only for Sunday lunch, already has its fans (another biased one, admittedly), and given that the vast majority of lunchers were ordering it yesterday, I think it will soon have many more.
Fish – La Boissonnerie 69 rue de Seine, 75006 Paris, +33 (0)1 43 54 34 69