Paris is Freezing

June 9th, 2010 § 12 comments

Now that summer is upon us, I thought I’d round up my favorite addresses for ice cream and sorbet in Paris.

Berthillon The one and only, incontournable, classic, etc, etc ad nauseum.  I recently visited Berthillon for the first time in — gosh, how long? — a while, and for some reason was prepared to be underwhelmed.  But then I tasted the wild strawberry sorbet, studded with fraises de bois,  I stopped in my tracks and sighed. “Oh, right,” I said to myself.  “I remember now.” 29 rue St. Louis en l’Ile, Paris 75004, +33 (0)1 43 54 31 61 website

Pozzetto My recent strawberry-sorbet-induced epiphany notwithstanding, I generally lean toward Pozzetto when pressed to name a favorite address for ice cream in Paris.  This, dear readers, can be dangerous:  When I expressed this sentiment the other night at l’Avant Comptoir, I thought that one Berthillon devoté, very likely a former rugby player, very certainly drunk on Morgon, might toss me out the door. 39 Rue du Roi de Sicile, Paris 75004, +33 (0)1 42 77 08 64 website


Le Bac à Glaces I find this family run shop near the Bon Marché charming.  The ingredients are good and the flavors intense.  Though after lots of testing (ahem) I’ve noticed that their product can be inconsistent – the ice cream is occasionally over churned, a sorbet may be icy.  But when it’s good, it’s great, and I will always go back to the Bac.  (Especially in the cooler months for their prune and Armagnac ice cream.)  109 rue du Bac, 75007 Paris +33 (0)1 45 48 87 65 website

Caramella Stop here for a scoop of hazelnut or speculoos ice cream before or after a visit to Sacre Coeur, and consider it an incentive to take the stairs. 47 rue des Martyrs, 75009 Paris,  +33 (0)1 44 53 09 56

Grom Based in Turin, Grom seems set on gelato world domination, and they will not cut corners to get there.  Lemons from the Amalfi coast, Sicilian pistachios:  The flavors at Grom are emblems of Italian slow food heritage.  Between Paris and New York (I didn’t live far from their Bleecker St. Location) I have probably consumed more gelato from Grom than anywhere else. 81 rue de Seine, 75006 Paris, +33 (0)1 40 46 92 60 website

Many bakeries and chocolate shops set up an ice cream case outside in warmer weather.  I am particularly fond of the pistache aux Calissons from A La Mere de la Famille, and the chocolate sorbet from La Maison du Chocolate has been known to make people insane.

David Lebovitz likes these places, too.  Berthillon makes Dorie Greenspan’s top ten list of Paris must-tastes.  Phyllis Flick reports that frozen yogurt is making inroads into Paris.  Caroline Mignot adore les glaces chez Christian Constant.

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§ 12 Responses to Paris is Freezing"

  • as soon as i saw the words, your “favorite ice cream in paris” – i knew there’d be a mention of the prune and armagnac ice cream at le bac à glaces — which i still really need to try. berthillon is of course the almighty – and i mean, you gotta love an ice cream shop that closes for the month of august.

    that said, i will admit to being disappointed by the fraises des bois sorbet. i obviously need to try again. and whereas i always always go for salted caramel anything, i actually prefer berthillon’s (sweet) caramel ice cream. and the pignon de pin – phenomenal. have a scoop or two around town for me ! merci :)

  • Lindsey says:

    Agreed! GROM is by far my favorite…. have never left unsatisfied.

  • Daniel says:

    For some reason, I though the title of the post was a reference to the un-summerly weather in Paris (I’m in Berlin), but instead it’s several places that I’ll have to add to my Paris list! Thanks.

  • Barbra says:

    Kerrin, you’re encyclopedic knowledge of treats never ceases to amaze me. Is there any sweet stone you have left unturned?

    Lindsey, I was very happy to see the line at Grom was longer than the one at Amorino the other night. Smart, smart people.

    Daniel, this weather is for the birds. Hopefully we’ll be back to ice cream eating temperatures soon.

  • Ciara says:

    Bonjour Barbra,

    One of my favourite ice cream shops in Paris is out in the 12th arrondissement – Raimo Glacier, 59 – 61, boulevard de Reuilly. Métro : Daumesnil

    Some of my favourite flavours there are Caramel Au Beurre Salé, Pamplemousse and Chocolat Blanc…
    BTW I am joining two of the Context walks you are leading on 13 and 22 July so looking forward to meeting you!

    À bientôt!

    C.

  • Susan says:

    I am drooling! Can’t wait to get there soon to try all the others…have only been to Berthillon, which is always amazing. Thanks for sharing the sweet secrets!

  • [...] And Barbara Austen lists her favourites in an article on her blog: Paris is Freezing [...]

  • Shelli says:

    Living close to Grom was dangerous until they stopped offering the caramel beurre salé; having tasted heaven, I could resist lesser flavors.

  • Barbra says:

    Shelli, I am a sucker for the pistachio at Grom.

    I’m not sure if it’s a blessing or a curse, but there is no good ice cream in my current neighborhood. Hrmph.

  • [...] out more about Mary at The Paris Notebook.  Read about Merce on My Little Paris.  See a list of my favorite ice cream shops in [...]

  • I’m disgusted.
    New York City is a veritable desert for ice cream next to Paris. It’s very discouraging. The places are few and far between. What’s wrong with New Yorker?
    I have come round to liking Amorino, maybe because they are always there when you want them. Their pistache is not at all bad, though no wheres close to Pozzetto

  • Barbra says:

    Paris Breakfasts – Not sure where you live in NYC, but Grom has locations on the Upper West Side and in the West Village.

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