Barbra Austin

It’s possible that J’Go was once good. Indeed, when I revisited one positive review I remembered reading, there was ample evidence, both written and photographic, that this restaurant used to serve something that not only looked edible but appetizing and fresh.

What I ate was insipid and suspect.

The name of this legendary food shop in the Testaccio neighborhood of Rome is Volpetti, but I’ve taken to calling it “my happy place.”