The name of this legendary food shop in the Testaccio neighborhood of Rome is Volpetti, but I’ve taken to calling it “my happy place.”
The Volpetti brothers set up shop here in 1973, offering a pan-Italian variety of products, as well as goods from their own kitchens. It’s beautiful.
I visited the 23rd of December, and the shop was packed with people stocking up for holiday feasts. I hovered at the counter and waited for one of the white-jacketed workers to finish up with other customers, and then we were off.
My guy started offering samples, and I will tell you that it is impossible not to by a hunk of truffled salami after you’ve tasted a slice. He knows this.
I bought that, and a softer roll made from the legendary Cinta Senese pig. The garnished goat cheeses were charming but I honed in on a two-milk Robiola.
Nearby, dried figs dripped with their own invert sugar. I was offered one, and swooned.
(Because of the figs.)
Hams hang from the ceiling, bottles of wine and olive oil and honey and mostarda line the walls, a pastry counter was piled with pannetone and jam-filled crostate. Pistachio-flecked torrone was stacked like cut stone.
Filets of salt cod rested in a cool pool. The guy manning the pizza station seemed heartbroken that I didn’t want a slab.
The window was filled with fresh pastas and par-fried fritters (including suppli, which will make you want to repent for ever having consumed the cheese sticks at a crappy pub or airport TGI Fridays [don't judge - you've been there, too]).
I served the spoils of this shopping spree to guests on New Year’s eve, forgoing the traditional Parisian feast of foie gras and oysters.
“I went to an amazing shop in Testaccio,” I started explaining to a friend.
“Volpetti. You went to Volpetti,” she said, her eyes getting misty.
Maybe we live in the wrong country.
Volpetti via Marmorata 47, Testaccio, Rome +39 06 5742352 website
See all my photos from Rome on Flickr.
Browse other posts from Rome here.
To visit Volpetti is as to visit a corner of heaven.
The aged balsamics will make your knees weak. With Reggiano cheese and chestnut honey – yum. And the fresh truffles – I actually thought about smuggling…briefly. Not seriously.
Stu and Jill – For me it was a mix of the products and the service, the way every client was being cared for even though the place was elbow to elbow. Or maybe it was just the wine I had had at lunch…
Hello Barbra,
I am one of your new best friends… (the shorter guy in the picture).
I have discovered by chance this page and I am really honored to read all the nice words you have spent on our shop: they are the best rewards for the hard work of our staff and family.
And congratulations for the very nice pictures you have taken.
I hope to meet you again next time you are in Rome.
A presto,
Alessandro
Dear Alessandro, thank you for your comment! I had so much fun visiting Volpetti (and plenty of fun eating the things I bought!) Your family has much to be proud of.
Grazie mille!
Your photos and descriptions are something out of my dreams. Another place to add to my list!
Hi Barbara. Love your web site! I found it while trolling flickr, looking for images to use on my soon-to-be-released (as soon as I get the damn thing done) app on where to eat in Rome. I’m sure we know many people in common (Alec? David?) Do get in touch next time you make a Volpetti run. Or let know if you need some cinta senese via express mail.
And just realized you do stuff for Context! I am friend of Petulia.
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