Notes From the Road

September 5th, 2012 § 1 comment § permalink

By the time the year is over, I will have attended five weddings. This breaks my 2008 record, a fact I’m commemorating by wearing all of the same dresses. Or at least the one(s) that still fit(s), a category which shrank significantly after the second wedding, in Spain, where all personal ham consumption records were shattered.

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Vivant

October 27th, 2011 § 1 comment § permalink

Back in July I had a dessert at Vivant that I still think about: A slippery peach, juicy and fragrant, served well by a dollop of lightened mascarpone and crushed almonds. When I told Pierre Jancou how much I liked it, he immediately and ardently deflected all credit to the fruit, the grower, and the location of the orchard.

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Septime

July 10th, 2011 § 10 comments § permalink

The room is glass, wood, and metal, with big-hipped dame Jeanne carafes here and there, glimmering in the low light like soap bubbles. It’s not a big restaurant, but it’s not small, either. It could be on W. 11th and Bleecker as easily as the 11th arrondissement of Paris.

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Frenchie

June 24th, 2011 § 5 comments § permalink

“Is it worth the hype?” People ask me about Frenchie. “He’s a great cook,” I usually say, and I mean it. “I would happily eat there all the time,” I add. If I could get in.

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Le Severo

June 9th, 2011 § 3 comments § permalink

There was a côte de veau for two, and sweetbreads with purée, asparagus and girolles on the menu at Le Severo, but the reason I traveled almost the entire length of line four was to eat steak. And not just any, but what might be some of the best in Paris.

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Le Bal Café, again (and again and again)

April 18th, 2011 § 8 comments § permalink

I have been to Le Bal two of the last three three of the last four Sundays. It’s a problem.

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A Few Recent Favorites

February 24th, 2011 § 5 comments § permalink

I’m on the road now but here are a few stand-out meals I’ve had recently in Paris.

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Berthillon (version hivernale)

December 15th, 2010 § 12 comments § permalink

For those of you love ice cream as much as I do but are disheartened by the cold, I’ve found a solution.

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Le Bal Café

November 16th, 2010 § 13 comments § permalink

The Brits likely invented brunch, and now two former Rose Bakery cooks are working on perfecting it at Le Bal.

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Tholoniat

November 4th, 2010 § 8 comments § permalink

I’m going to get this out in the open before I lose the courage to say it: Pascal Guerreau’s mille-feuille at Tholoniat rivals the one at Jacques Genin.

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