Barbra Austin

There was a côte de veau for two, and sweetbreads with purée, asparagus and girolles on the menu at Le Severo, but the reason I traveled almost the entire length of line four was to eat steak. And not just any, but what might be some of the best in Paris.

A dark, wet and wintry afternoon was perhaps not the best time to visit the Paris Catacombs and the cimetière de Montparnasse, but it was a perfect day to tuck into the nearby Crêperie de Josselin for lunch.

It’s game season, and all manner of fowl and four legged creatures are showing up on menus here. Recently spotted in the not-so-wild near the Gare Montparnasse: wood pigeon, wild duck, boar, grouse, and hare.