Barbra Austin

My first meal here, in early May, was an utter pleasure, not least because of the good company, or that it began with a coupe of Lassaigne at the bar. We were seated in front of the pass at the open kitchen, radishes and butter arrived, and we required no coaxing to commit to the five-course menu.

If you’re at all interested in the Parisian dining landscape, chances are high that you read Mark Bittman’s recent piece for the New York Times, Four Paris Restaurants Worth a Metro Ride. His assumption — and it’s mostly fair — is that most tourists don’t make it to the 10th, 18th, 19th, and 20th arrondissements.

But, as someone who lives in the 10th, it’s actually the restaurants in the center of town — never mind the bistro wonderland of the 15th– that require a commute. One that surely merits a ticket is Les Bistronomes.

“This is the best food for you. The walls at Lascaux are not covered with pictures of broccoli, after all,” said the guy sitting next to us at l’Ami Jean.

Maybe, but I doubt that our paleolithic ancestors had someone like Stephane Jego around to do the cooking.