Barbra Austin

It’s not even technically winter yet, but you wouldn’t know it in Paris these days. A cold snap worthy of deepest January settled in last week, and didn’t let up until Saturday during a substantial snowstorm, turning those pretty flakes into freezing wet drops.

Never mind that it comes from a very warm place: The Vietnamese noodle soup known simply as Pho, a beef and charred onion broth, aromatic with spices (yes, that is cinnamon you smell) is a perfect cold weather food.

I’ve said before that I like a restaurant that recognizes its limitations, but before having lunch at Song Heng, you’ll need to recognize your own.